After we had all the angles we started in on the logs. The first step was to peal them of their bark. The good news was that the bark came off with little trouble because it was spring and the sap was running. The bad new was that this job needs to be done in the winter because of what is called 'blue-stain'. Once the bark is pealed all sorts of hungry bacteria find the surface of the freshly pealed log a place of opportunity and begin to grow like crazy. No kidding in just a few days after pealing the logs would be covered in mold. We purchased a dry powder, mixed it with water and sprayed the logs. This stopped the mold for the most part but I sure wish we didn't have to use the chemical. Doing this job in winter allows the log to dry and keeps the mold away. If you plan to use your own logs plan way ahead and cut your trees in the winter, peal them and let them sit until spring.
On to making the ridge. We set the ridge log on some 'V' cut 'log horses' and began the layout of the ridge. I was going to recommend a book on log home building but I can't seem to find it right now. When I do I'll add it to this page. Anyway, plumb both ends with a line, then mark the angle. The crown of the log should be positioned so that you wind up with a flat surface the entire length of the log. Since the finish interior tongue and grove ceiling boards will be laying on this surface and you don't want a gap.
When it comes time to snap the chalk line be VERY careful you are visioning the flat surface and not snapping the line to hit the log. The best bet is to rotate the log so that the angle line is plumb then snap the line straight down. The only line that can be snapped to the log is the peak of the ridge. The other two lines must be snapped plumb. Use these lines to guide you chain saw. Make a bunch of cuts, then whack out the chips. The purlins (actually cap logs if you want the real name) are made the same way. One of our logs was really curved so we had to keep twisting it around until we got the best fit. The secret here is to make sure both ends are the same thickness. That is the distance from the top of the last house log to the top of the beveled edge going up the roof is the same. If you don't the roof will be catty-wompus. The small end of your log will be just barely cut while the butt end will be deeply cut. It all depends on how tapered your logs are. Get them as straight and of as little taper as possible.
On to making the ridge. We set the ridge log on some 'V' cut 'log horses' and began the layout of the ridge. I was going to recommend a book on log home building but I can't seem to find it right now. When I do I'll add it to this page. Anyway, plumb both ends with a line, then mark the angle. The crown of the log should be positioned so that you wind up with a flat surface the entire length of the log. Since the finish interior tongue and grove ceiling boards will be laying on this surface and you don't want a gap.
When it comes time to snap the chalk line be VERY careful you are visioning the flat surface and not snapping the line to hit the log. The best bet is to rotate the log so that the angle line is plumb then snap the line straight down. The only line that can be snapped to the log is the peak of the ridge. The other two lines must be snapped plumb. Use these lines to guide you chain saw. Make a bunch of cuts, then whack out the chips. The purlins (actually cap logs if you want the real name) are made the same way. One of our logs was really curved so we had to keep twisting it around until we got the best fit. The secret here is to make sure both ends are the same thickness. That is the distance from the top of the last house log to the top of the beveled edge going up the roof is the same. If you don't the roof will be catty-wompus. The small end of your log will be just barely cut while the butt end will be deeply cut. It all depends on how tapered your logs are. Get them as straight and of as little taper as possible.
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-Bruce